Chicago’s new The Oakville Grill & Cellar looks to Northern California wine country for inspiration, with farm-sourced salads, fresh-caught seafood, and meats grilled over local white oak. Chef Robbins’s Thanksgiving leftovers tacos are in the restaurant’s spirit of seasonality, creativity and comfort.
Tacos dorados, aka flautas, aka taquitos, are a crowd-pleasing dish that’s easy to make in large quantities once your pot of oil is sizzling. They lend themselves to Thanksgiving leftovers since potato, a holiday staple, is a common flauta filling in Mexico, and turkey was the only domesticated bird in pre-Hispanic Mexico. Their crunchy texture and shower of fresh garnishes take them far out of stodgy Leftoverland.
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Leftover Turkey and Potato Tacos Dorados
Courtesy Executive Chef Max Robbins, The Oakville Grill & Cellar, Chicago; Instagram: @theoakvillechicago
Ingredients
- 2 cups leftover shredded turkey, at room temperature
- 2 cups leftover mashed potatoes, at room temperature
- 12 6-inch corn tortillas
- Oil for deep frying (enough to reach a depth of at least 2 inches)
- ½ cup thinly shredded cabbage
- 2 avocados, sliced
- ½ cup sour cream, in a squeeze bottle or piping bag
- ½ cup crumbled queso fresco or cotija cheese
- 4 large radishes, sliced paper-thin
- 1 cup of your favorite salsa
Instructions
Mix together the turkey and potatoes, adding salt to taste if the potatoes aren’t already well-seasoned. Heat tortillas on a griddle (or 20 seconds each in the microwave) so they become pliable. Fill tortillas with 3 to 4 tablespoons of the turkey mixture. Roll tortilla around filling and secure with a toothpick (tortillas can be kept warm in a dish towel as you fill and roll).
Heat oil in a wok, Dutch oven or deep skillet to between 350 and 375°F. Add tacos, in batches if necessary, and fry until brown and crisp, turning occasionally, about 5 minutes total. The stuffing at the edges will get quite dark, which is OK. Drain on paper towels and remove toothpicks.
While still hot, divide tacos among four plates and top with cabbage, avocado, sour cream, cheese and radishes. Pass salsa at the table or place a ramekin of salsa on each plate for guests to add as they please. Serves 4.
Tip: For the deep-fry averse, these can also be shallow-fried in a half-inch of oil, turning them halfway through and basting with hot oil as they cook. An air fryer would work, too: Brush or spray lightly with oil and cook at 350°F for 15 to 20 minutes, or until crispy.
Wine Pairing
Both Mexican and Thanksgiving food crave refreshing acidity. Crisp Sauvignon Blanc acts like a spritz of lime over the cabbage, cheese and cream, while lending an herbal undertone that is beautiful with the turkey and potato mixture. Old World SBs will skew more citrus and mineral, while New World examples will be grassy and fruity, even tropical. Either style will work well here.
Try: Lomita 2022 Sauvignon Blanc (Valle de Guadalupe)
This article originally appeared in the November 2023 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!
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Last Updated: October 12, 2023
