“Maréchal Foch is resistant to about half of the fungi and diseases we worry about in the Finger Lakes,” says Matthew Butts, vintner at Tabora Farm & Winery in Dundee, New York. “As our region and other colder regions become less reliant on chemical inputs and more invested in sustainability, this is a grape we’ll see more of.” But Maréchal Foch (pronounced “maresh-shall fosh”) has, perhaps, an even more important asset. Along with embodying characteristics that make several hybrid grapes so attractive, it also offers the classic aromas and flavors more associated with Vitis vinifera than other hybrids. This quality, says Butts, makes it even more versatile and attractive as a wine. The grape’s newfound favor has been a long time coming. Eugène Kuhlmann created Maréchal Foch in Alsace at the Oberlin Institute in the 1920s, naming the hybrid after French general Ferdinand Foch, who served as the supreme commander of the Allied armies during World War I and is often credited for their ultimate victory. However, its pedigree is disputed. Many grape experts contend that Maréchal Foch (known technically as Kuhlmann 188-2) is a cross of Goldriesling and an unidentified Vitis riparia x Vitis rupestris hybrid. (The relatively obscure Goldriesling is itself a cross between Riesling and Courtiller Musqué). UC Davis specifically classifies it as Millardet et DeGrasset 101-14 OP x Goldriesling. Yet others argue that Maréchal Foch contains Oberlin Noir (a cross between Riparia-Millardet and Gamay Noir). Whatever its lineage, one thing is certain: Maréchal Foch is not always grown and harvested correctly, which has contributed to its lackluster reputation in the past, says Gregg Learned, winemaker and vice president of Bully Hill Vineyards in Hammondsport, New York. There’s also the issue of its popularity among the flying and furry. “Maréchal Foch is a good grower with moderate vigor and a shorter growing season,” which means the risk of frost damage in the spring and fall is lower, Learned explains. “Deer, turkeys and birds love that it ripens early and have turned it into one of their top choices for predation.” In addition to the challenge of fending off gluttonous birds and deer, the real trouble with Maréchal Foch begins with growing technique. “You need to maintain a reasonable crop load and utilize classic winemaking techniques,” Learned says. “Ideally, you pick it between 19 and 22 Brix, not the 23 or 24 people sometimes let it get to. Yes, there will be higher sugar, but the acid will drop out and the higher pH will throw it off balance.” But when grown and bottled correctly, Maréchal Foch is a winner for growers, vintners and wine lovers alike. “I’m seeing more of it go in the ground here because it’s economically sound, easy to grow and can be sold at a reasonable price,” says Learned. “And it is a cult wine for some. We have a loyal following of people who are absolutely rabid about our Maréchal Foch.” Quick Facts Grape: Red Crossing Of: That’s a contentious topic… Where Grown: Cool climates of the Midwest and Eastern U.S. and Canada Wine Styles: Single-varietal and blends Aromas/Flavors: Black cherries, blackberries, mocha, coffee, vanilla beans Food Pairing: “Pair it with classic Italian cuisine,” says Learned. “Roast beef, duck and lamb.” This article originally appeared in the August/September 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today! More Hybrid Varietal Coverage Our beginner's guide to hybrid grapes is a great primer on the subject. Meet Aravelle, a new Riesling hybrid 42 years in the making. Chardonel can achieve a body and flavor range similar to Chardonnay, but can withstand long, harsh winters. Cayuga is a New York-bred hybrid grape that packs a big personality. Ambulo Blanc is a hybrid grape with disease-fighting superpowers. These hybrid grapes are creating a new future for rosé. From the Shop Find Your Wine a Home Our selection of wine glasses is the best way to enjoy a wine’s subtle aromas and bright flavors. Shop All Wine Glasses
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