Burgundy Wine Region

Burgundy (Bourgogne) is located 220 miles southeast of Paris and 140 miles northwest of Geneva, Switzerland. Burgundy, more probably than any other wine region in the world, is completely influenced by its terroir, which in Burgundy is referred to as climat or lieu-dit. Terroir is French for “sense of place,” meaning that the wine tastes like the region where it was grown and made. Burgundy’s varied soils and microclimates enable experts to precisely pinpoint the village or vineyard in which the grapes were grown. While Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grown around the world, Burgundy’s grapes are the benchmark against which they are often compared.

Geography and Climate of the Burgundy Wine Region

Burgundy is a surprisingly small wine-producing area: its 74, 000 acres of planted vines account for 3% of all French vine plantings. It lies on the slopes and valleys west of the Saône River, a tributary of the Rhône.

Burgundy is divided into four main wine-producing sub-regions spread over 75 miles north to south. Côte d’Auxerre (Chablis) is at the top, followed by Côte d’Or (which includes Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune), Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais and Beaujolais.

Each of these subregions is made up of villages, which are also called communes. In fact, Chablis, in the valley of the Serein River, is closer to the Champagne region than to the rest of Burgundy.

While the major climactic problem in Chablis is frost, in the rest of Burgundy it is rot and mildew.

The region is known for its rolling hills, chalky, clay and limestone soils, and unique microclimates, which contribute to the distinctive flavors of its wines. Burgundy sits on small geological faults. Combined with erosion over time, this means that the soil types can change subtly within small areas.

The general climate of Burgundy ranges from cool continental in the north (like in Chablis) to moderate continental in the south (like in Mâconnais). The region benefits from the moderating influence of the nearby Morvan Mountains, which protect the vineyards from harsh weather conditions.

History of the Burgundy Wine Region

During the Middle Ages, Benedictine monks owned much of the land and significantly developed winemaking in the region. It was the Cistercian monks, however, who maintained detailed records of their vineyards. They described exactly how and where vines thrived, and how the resulting wines tasted. In doing so, they created the world’s first harvest reports and the idea of crus and terroir.  In 1336, the Cistercian monks created Burgundy’s first wall-surrounded vineyard, Clos de Vougeot (which still thrives today).

Also in the 1300s, the Dukes of Burgundy banned imports and exports of non-Burgundian wines, effectively shutting out the then-popular wines of the Rhône Valley from north European markets. This move gave a considerable boost to the Burgundy wine industry (and the coffers of the dukes and Duchy). In 1395, Duke Philippe outlawed the then-predominant grapes of the area, Gamay and Aligote. By calling them “vile and disloyal” (he preferred Pinot Noir), he forever changed the profile and exclusivity of Burgundy.

By the 16th century, Burgundian Pinot Noir was being exported to other European countries. In the 18th century, the quality of roads in France became better, which made trading Burgundy wines easier. The first négociant (merchant) houses of the region were established in the 1720s and 1730s. After the French Revolution, the vineyards were broken up and with the Napoleonic Inheritance Laws, were further sub-divided. Most plots of land were farmed by different growers owning even a few, specific rows of vines.

The economic depression during the 1930s, followed by the devastation of World War II, severely reduced production in the region. In the 1950s, the vignerons began the painstaking process of bringing the Burgundian standard of quality back to what we know and hold in such high regard today.

Grape Varieties and Styles of the Burgundy Wine Region

Burgundy producers employ a traditional winemaking process that has been refined over centuries. Grapes are handpicked and carefully sorted before being fermented in oak barrels. The winemakers of Burgundy take pride in producing wines that reflect the unique terroir of the region. Ownership of entire vineyards by one entity is rare; rather, most producers own rows of vines in various vineyards within the appellation. There are currently 84 Appellations Origine Contrôllée (which account for 23% of all French AOCs) in Burgundy.

The main red grape variety planted in Burgundy is Pinot Noir. The most important plantings are in the Côte d’Or, which account for 40% of plantings. Burgundian Pinot Noir tends to have red fruit flavors that take on more earthiness as they age. They generally have high acidity and low to medium levels of tannins, depending on the producer.

Chardonnay, the main white variety, accounts for 50% of plantings. The Chardonnays of Chablis, the cooler northern tip of Burgundy, are lean, acidic, crisp, flinty and steely. They are not automatically aged in oak but spend a lot of time fermenting on lees (dead yeast). As one progresses south, the whites become more full-bodied and complex. Those from the Mâconnais and Chalonnaise are the most full-bodied whites of Burgundy.

Other grapes are authorized to grow in the area, but all of those make up just over 10% of plantings. Aligoté, a neutral white that’s known for its high acidity and ability to reflect terroir, makes up 6.5% of plantings in Burgundy. In some regional appellations, the Gamay grape (which accounts for 3.8% of plantings) is used to produce early drinking red wines with ripe berry flavors and low tannins. The remaining 0.9% of plantings are composed of Sauvignon Blanc (0.6%), Sauvignon Gris, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Melon, César and Sacy.

In addition to still wine, Burgundy produces its own fine sparkling wines using the traditional method under the appellation Crémant de Bourgogne. They can be made with any of Burgundy’s permitted grapes, but most use Pinot Noir or Chardonnay as their base blending wine. Produced in the same traditional method as its northern neighbor Champagne, Crémant de Bourgogne offers exceptional quality and value.

 Classification of Wine in Burgundy

Burgundy’s classification system denotes quality, and it reflects a vineyard’s location, namely its slope and slant. Its four categories are:

Regional: Grapes can be sourced from anywhere in the appellation. These wines can be made from different grape varieties and vineyards from various villages in Burgundy. They will simply be labeled as Bourgogne Blanc or Bourgogne Rouge. They represent nearly half all wines produced in Burgundy and are intended to be consumed immediately.

Village: Grapes can be sourced only from several vineyards in one of the 44 villages of Burgundy, and the name of the village will be prominently displayed on the bottle’s label. These wines represent 36% of all Burgundy wines and offer surprising value.

Premier Cru: Grapes are sourced from a specific vineyard of a specific village. These wines are produced from about 640 climats, which are of consistently stellar quality.

Grand Cru: Reserved for the best (just 1%) of all vineyards in Burgundy. These wines have the highest prices and are aggressively pursued by collectors.

Chablis, which is geographically separated from the rest of Burgundy, has its own AOC classification system for its Chardonnay:

• Petit Chablis: Grapes are grown on the outskirts of the town of Chablis. They are village wines, and are typically fresh, light and not complex.
• Chablis: Grapes are grown closer to the town of Chablis. This is the most general appellation, producing white wines that are crisp and highly acidic, but more mineral than Petit Chablis.
• Chablis Premier Cru: Grapes are from specific vineyards, with the vineyard names on the labels. These are sometimes aged in oak and have an aging potential of five to ten years, if not longer.
• Chablis Grand Cru: Grapes are grown in one of seven vineyards, all on one slope just north of the town of Chablis.

Famous Wines of the Burgundy Wine Region

Burgundy’s Côte d’Or is the home of some of the world’s most highly prized and expensive wines. Notable appellations include Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Vosne-Romanée and Montrachet. The Clos de Vougeot is the oldest and largest single Grand Cru vineyard in the Côte de Nuits. The most famous, however, is Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC). Each of DRC’s grand cru vineyards represents an iconic climat. Its Grand Cru La Romanée-Conti vineyard is hidden behind stone walls and planted entirely with Pinot Noir. The vines of La Romanée-Conti are so precious they were targets of an extortion plot in 2010 and threatened with poison unless the estate paid a ransom of 1 million euros. In 2018, two bottles of 1945 Romanée-Conti broke world records for the most expensive wines sold at auction, fetching $558,000 and $496,000. Domaine Leroy, part owners of DRC, also shares this lofty space of international fame.

For whites, premium Chardonnay is found primarily in the southern part of the Côte d’Or, Côte de Beaune and Chablis. Corton-Charlemagne and Meursault are notable appellations. Montrachet’s five Grand Crus, which hail from the two villages of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, are considered some of the finest examples of Chardonnay on the planet.

Besides the above-mentioned wines, Burgundy certainly boasts many more famous wines and producers. Quality abounds in this region.

Tourism in the Burgundy Wine Region

Burgundy, with its rich history and cultural heritage, offers visitors a myriad of attractions and experiences beyond its renowned winemaking traditions.

Dijon, derived from the Roman Divio (“sacred fountain”), was an important stop between Lyon and Paris. It became the capital of the Duchy of Burgundy and is the main city at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits. In the Musée Archéologique, one can trace Burgundy’s history, from Neolithic to Roman to Medieval times.

The church of Notre-Dame de Bon-Espoir is considered a masterpiece of 13th century Gothic architecture. In fact, one of its stone relief owls is a good luck charm—visitors from all over the world come to touch this owl and make a wish.

Nearby, the cathedral of Saint Benignus, or Dijon Cathedral, is another national monument. At the Musée des Beaux-Arts, which is housed in the Ducal Palace, one will find a large tapestry depicting the town’s history. The city has a variety of architectural styles. Still, it is distinguished by its toits bourguignons, Burgundian polychrome roofs made from glazed, multicolored terracotta tiles arranged in various geometric patterns.

One must not miss the Well of Moses, a monumental sculpture from the 15th century. In 2015, UNESCO declared Dijon’s historical city center a World Heritage Site, as one of the components of the “Climats, terroirs of Burgundy” site, because of the town’s historical importance in regulating the system of wine production in Burgundy.

Beyond Dijon, Burgundy has numerous historic sites, such as the cathedrals at Auxerre and Sens, the Romanesque Basilica of Vézelay, and the chateaus of Ancy-le-Franc, Tanlay, Fleurigny and Saint-Fargeau. Paray-le-Monial is a pilgrimage destination with a Romanesque church modeled on the celebrated Cluny Abbey.

Every autumn, Dijon holds an International and Gastronomic Fair. The area’s gastronomic “claim to fame,” Dijon mustard, was first used in the 14th century and became popular in 1856, when vinegar, one of the main ingredients, was replaced with verjus (the acidic, green juice of unripe grapes). It is believed that the name mustard, “moutarde” in French, comes from the Dukes of Burgundy’s motto, “Moult me tarde,” meaning “many await me.”

All of this is why the expression of the “Burgundian lifestyle” is still used to denote enjoyment of life, good food and spectacle.