The Part: Kidneys | Wine Enthusiast
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The Chef: Fergus Henderson, chef, St. John, London (pictured left)

Fergus Henderson (left)
Photo courtesy St. John

The Dish: Devilled Kidneys

“Cook the kidneys until they have a bit of give, but they still squeak when you bite into them. And remember: it’s crucial to make sure that there’s enough liquid to soak into the toast. That’s the best bit!”


2 slices of white or wheat bread (white seems to soak up juices better)
6 lamb kidneys, suet and membrane removed, cut in half lengthwise, retaining the kidney shape
3 tablespoons plain flour
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon English mustard powder
Sea salt and black pepper, to taste
A big knob of butter
Worcestershire sauce, to taste
A healthy splash of chicken stock


Toast bread, and set aside. Nip out white fatty gristle of kidneys with knife or scissors. In bowl, mix together flour, cayenne pepper, mustard powder, salt and pepper.

Heat frying pan until very hot. Add butter. As it melts, roll kidneys in spiced flour mixture. Shake them in sieve to remove excess. Place kidneys in pan. Cook 2 minutes per side. Add Worcestershire sauce and chicken stock and let all the ingredients get to know each other. Remove kidneys and place atop toast. Let sauce reduce and emulsify in pan (don’t let it disappear). Pour over kidneys and toast. Serves 2.

The Pairing

Pol Roger 2004 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Brut
Photo by Meg Baggott

Pol Roger 2004 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Brut (Champagne); Black Velvet (stout and Champagne).

For Beverage Director Trevor Gulliver (pictured above at right), the Pol Roger is “an exquisite choice of bubbly.”

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