“I want to dispel the myths of what America thinks Black cooking is and is not,” says Ashleigh Shanti, chef and owner of Good Hot Fish in Asheville, North Carolina.
Items that typically fall under “soul food,” like fried chicken and macaroni and cheese, might fit the bill, she continues, “but there’s just so much more depth,” she says about the African American culinary cannon and greater Southern cuisine.
Though many Americans tend to lump all soul and Southern food into the same general pot, the region and its varied fare is not a single entity. Shanti expands upon this idea in her recently released cookbook, Our South: Black Food Through My Lens.
In the tome, Shanti highlights the distinct cuisines from the backcountry of Southern Appalachia to the lowlands of Tidewater, Virginia. These “microregions,” as she calls them, demonstrate the diversity of Southern cooking—and how varied it can be from the fried, heavily meat-based and unhealthy dishes that most associate with this part of the nation.
Our South explores the smaller, culturally linked areas that were instrumental in her upbringing and evolved understanding of the region. Growing up in coastal Virginia, Shanti was heavily influenced by her parents’ roots across southern Appalachia, southwestern Virginia and other parts of the Southeast. The food she was raised on drew influences from all of the above—a cultural elixir of its own kind that for Shanti, was really special.
“I think people don’t realize how vegetable forward it can be,” she says. “We take these very simple humble ingredients and elevate them to another level.”
According to Shanti, the farm-to-table movement isn’t merely a trend but rather how Southerners have cooked for generations. “If it’s growing around you, then that’s what you’re going to use to feed your family,” she says.
This is why sweet potatoes, which are ripe and ready to eat come fall, are a Thanksgiving staple across the South. The vibrant tubers show up in the form of pies, casseroles and—in this boozy rendition—pudding.
Sweet potato pudding isn’t necessarily traditional, but if you’re in a pinch for dessert, this simple holiday-ready recipe is sure to please.
Booze (in this case bourbon) elevates the celebratory aspect of this dish, in addition to lending notes of caramel nuttiness. Top it off with whipped cream, and you’ve got a sweet, seasonal dessert that’s sure to impress dinner guests.
How to Make Drunken Sweet Potato Pudding
Recipe adapted from Our South: Black Food Through My Lens by Ashleigh Shanti; @_foodordeath.
Serves six
Ingredients
- 1 small sweet potato, scrubbed
- ½ cup packed dark brown sugar
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- ½ cup heavy cream
- ½ cup whole milk
- ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
- 1 large egg, at room temperature
- 2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
- 2 tablespoons cornstarch
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon bourbon
- 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
For the Whipped Cream
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1 teaspoon confectioners’ sugar
Instructions
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5
Step 6
Step 7
Step 8
remove from the heat.
Step 9
Step 10
More Thanksgiving Coverage
- Pairing wines for Thanksgiving? Here’s a cheat sheet.
- And here’s a wine guide to Thanksgiving sides.
- Avoid Thanksgiving nightmares with these tips.
- Forget turkey—these Thanksgiving cocktails take inspo from the sides.
- Turkey-infused booze? Pechuga mezcal is coming to Thanksgiving.
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Published: November 18, 2024
