Wine snobs may look down upon Pinot Grigio, but there’s far more to the varietal than the bulk-produced brands lead many to believe.
There are excellent Pinot Grigios—produced in a wide array of styles across Italy and beyond—if you know where to look.
Since its introduction to American shelves during the late 1970s, Pinot Grigio rose to become one of the most imported wines from Italy by the mid-1990s. These savory, refreshing offerings were polar opposites to the oaked-up, buttery and often palate-fatiguing Chardonnays that once dominated the American market.
Half a century later, the Italian varietal is still wildly popular. Pinot Grigio is the second most consumed white wine in the United States, according to data from IWSR, a drinks industry analyst. In a 2022 survey, 42% of wine drinkers claimed to have had it in the past month, right behind the 47% who had reported having drunk Chardonnay.
Much of this demand can be attributed to Anthony Terlato, the late chairman of Terlato Wine Group. He previously told Wine Enthusiast that Pinot Grigio offered both quality and clarity when he launched the Santa Margherita label in 1979, which put the variety on the radar of American wine drinkers.
“Italian wines that were popular in the mid-1970s had no varietal indication on the labels—they were just ‘Soave,’ ‘Orvieto’ or ‘Frascati,’ ” Terlato said. “I realized that Americans were increasingly looking for varietals in order to better understand wine, and they were also seeking higher-quality wines.”
The wine was an instant success. Soon, other importers were bringing in a steady supply of Pinot Grigio. As demand surged, however, more and more producers began to turn out mediocre bottlings in industrial quantities.
“During the last 30 years, the quality of many Pinot Grigios declined as producers did whatever it took to meet growing demand in the U.S., such as planting on valley floors at high yields with a focus on quantity, not quality,” Terlato said.
Though there are still plenty of uninspiring bottles on the market, there are also lots of gems. Many of these high-quality bottles highlight different terroir and styles of winemaking that cater to today’s curious consumers.
"To many, Pinot Grigio may seem to fit into one easy category of light white wine, but that is far from the reality,” says Jeff Porter, who reviews Italian wines for Wine Enthusiast. “Pinot Grigio, grown across Italy, has a multitude of styles to fit any palate and pair across multiple cuisines. Exploring its diversity is what makes these wines so special and unique, so if you want crisp and vibrant or an elegant copper-hued Ramato, Pinot Grigio is here for you."
Across Italy, there are dry, mineral-driven versions with a stony or flinty finish, as well as similarly dry bottlings that boast fruitier aromas of yellow and green apples and white flowers.
The skin-contact Ramatos from Friuli Venezia Giulia boast flavorful notes like stone fruit and spice with lively acidity as well as nice structure and tannins, whereas Pinot Grigio rosato is often light, fruity and refreshing.
Though Pinot Grigio is grown and made all over the globe today, we decided it was time to look back at the Italian versions to explore the evolution of the category. From high fruit or minerality to orange and rosato, we’ve rounded up some of the highest-scoring Italian Pinot Grigio wines to buy right now.
Dry-Mineral Pinot Grigios
Castelfeder 2022 15 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige)
An aromatic journey with scents of tree-ripened green apple, warmed pear, and fresh mountain herbs, this wine captures one’s attention immediately. On the palate, it unfolds with refreshingly citrus and peach flavors that culminate with a stony minerality on the lifted finish. Best Buy. 92 Points— Jeff Porter
$ Varies Saratoga Wine
Volpe Pasini 2022 Grivò Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio (Friuli)
Greeting the nose with a tapestry of ripe Anjou pear and wet river stones, this wine offering lifts out of the glass. A palate that dances between vivacious lemon zest and a flinty minerality and embodies the crispness of Friuli’s windswept vineyards. Best Buy. 91 Points — J.P.
$20 Wines From Italy
Italo Cescon 2022 Il Tralcetto Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie)
Pinot Grigio as it should be: layered, aromatic, interesting and inviting. The wine shows aromas of white peach, lemon, pressed yellow flowers and sea salt. Elegant on the palate with a creamy, leesy texture that pops with lemon curd and candied lime zest on the stony mineral finish. Best Buy. 92 Points — J.P.
$19 Mission Wines
Pighin 2022 Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio (Friuli)
This Pinot Grigio opens with aromas of ripe pear, lemon peel, white flowers and a touch of sea breeze. The palate offers zesty acidity, with flavors of green apple and a touch of mineral finishing with layers of textural notes that are really intriguing and draw you deeper into the wine. Best Buy. 90 Points — J.P.
$ Varies Wine.comDry-Fruity Pinot Grigios
Schiopetto 2022 Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio (Collio)
Delicate aromas of green apple, citrus, and fresh white flowers mingle in this expressive wine. The palate pops with vibrant flavors of ripe pear and lemon, complemented by a crisp acidity and a refreshing, clean finish. 90 Points — J.P.
$31 Pogo's Wine & Spirits
La Roncaia 2021 Pinot Grigio (Friuli Colli Orientali)
Ripe golden apples, lemon peel, yellow flowers and crushed rock all combine on the nose of this classic Pinot Grigio. It’s textured on the palate, with layers of ripe apple, melon and apricot finishing with a pop of acidity on the finish. 90 Points — J.P.
$27 Tannico
Ramato Pinot Grigios
Vie di Romans 2020 Dessimis Pinot Grigio (Friuli Isonzo)
This copper-colored Pinot Grigio (better known as Ramato in Friuli) is a pure delight. Aromas of strawberry and cherry mix with peach and crisp apples as if the best fruit salad were in your glass. Subtle hints of mint, fresh flowers and sweet spice dance between the fruit aromas. The palate is forward but is pulled together with a nervy strain of acidity from beginning to end. This is a wine that crosses so many culinary boundaries that it warrants experimenting and having some fun. 93 Points — J.P.
$ Varies Petit Phillipe Fine Wine
Fantinel 2021 Sun Goddess Ramato Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio (Friuli)
Not many celebrity wines really hit the mark but Mary J. Blige and Fantinel have taken a bold stand with a Ramato Pinot Grigio—and it has paid off. This wine has gentle and elegant aromas of peach, apricot and fresh flowers, with a hint of ginger. The palate is well textured and compelling with a mix of stone fruit and a pop of green apple skin that perks things up with lively acidity on the finish. 91 Points — J.P.
$21 Wine.comRosato Pinot Grigios
Bollini 2022 Rosato (Vigneti delle Dolomiti)
This rosé of Pinot Grigio opens with aromas of fresh strawberries and Fuji apples that give way to a waft of iris. The palate is light and refreshing focused on light red fruits and crisp acidity. Best Buy. 87 Points— J.P.
$ Varies Armanetti Wine & LiquorsMore Italian Wine Coverage
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Published: July 19, 2024
