If you’re not sure of what to expect of wines from New York State’s Finger Lakes AVA, let us illuminate you. Imagine cold winds from Canada rustling through vineyards, which produce grapes with impressive verve and remarkable acidity. Slate and limestone slopes that welcome the warmth of the summer sun and work in tandem with deep bodies of water to ripen grapes. In the glass, all of this translates to wines with distinctive fruit and acidic profiles.
In short, this cool region is a treasure trove of potential and innovation, which produces elegant fruit and prominent acidity. And although climate change looms, an exciting horizon lies ahead.
How It Started
In 1958, grape grafting trailblazer Dr. Konstantin Frank first adjoined Riesling and Chardonnay vines on cold-hardy rootstocks in the Finger Lakes region. Although in his experience, American hybrids often yielded unreliable and costly results, Frank saw potential and founded the region’s first vinifera winery, Vinifera Wine Cellars.
The institution revolutionized the local wine industry and made the survival of European varietals in a cool climate feasible. Propagation in nearby vineyards and the founding of new wineries soon followed. In 1982, the Finger lakes AVA was established, followed by the declaration of the Cayuga Lake sub-AVA in 1988 and the Seneca Lake sub-AVA in 2003. Today, there are more than 130 wineries spread across the region.
Varietals That Thrive Here
The Finger Lakes AVA produces white wines with invigorating structure. Today, Riesling dominates the AVA, manifesting in a range of styles with varying levels of dryness. In addition to its characteristic acidity, these wines tend to deliver fresh notes of tart apples, Meyer lemon and peach, which complement the grape’s signature petrol aroma.
Blind tasters can distinguish Finger Lakes Riesling from examples that hail from Alsace and Mosel. The latter lead with fruit, which gives way to a petrol mid-palate before finishing with mouthwatering acidity. The Finger Lakes expression, on the other hand, unabashedly strikes with a surge of linear acid upfront. Late-harvest and botrytized Rieslings produced here, which exude restraint and balance, have also boosted New York State’s sweet wine reputation. These scintillating gems have graced wine lists worldwide alongside German and Australian counterparts.
Chardonnay is also exceptional here, with still wines boasting bold but round acidity and lively citrus and orchard fruit flavors that are reminiscent of vibrant Chablis. The unoaked, stainless-steel style mesmerizes even the staunchest of the “ABC” (Anything but Chardonnay) crowd. Moreover, it often dances gracefully with Pinot Noir in traditional-method sparkling wines, symphonizing stone fruit with red berries framed by toasty brioche. However, Chardonnay’s pièce de résistance is its Blanc de Blancs, characterized by white peach, apricot and delicate floral notes—a stylistic rendition that holds its own against high-end sparklers from Trentodoc and Carneros.
Gewurztraminer, generally a low-acid variety, also flourishes, but with a robust acidity that outpaces that of bottlings from Alsace. These are wines with pronounced but inviting notes of lychee and rose petal. Similarly, Sancerre lovers can embrace the region’s Sauvignon Blanc, which delivers herbaceous and floral notes that harmonize with citrus zest.
For reds, Cabernet Franc steals the spotlight. This resilient winter-hardy grape delivers consistent yields. Winemakers are enamored by its versatility, crafting both oaked and unoaked styles. Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc bursts with red fruit flavors and a cheeky hint of green bell pepper. It shines with both French and American oak, adopting fine tannins and a voluptuous body with hints of coconut, clove and vanilla bean.
Pinot Noir also performs well in years with long, dry growing seasons, yielding fresh flavors of sour cherry and strawberry marked by its classic acidic profile. In similar conditions, Merlot blossoms and achieves higher levels of acidity compared to its Long Island, California and Bordeaux counterparts.
Looking Forward
The region is also home to a bourgeoning sparkling scene. While other regions chase to retain acidity, the cool climate of the Finger Lakes allows for picking sparkling grapes deep into September, achieving a desirable balance between ripeness and acidic lift. Many believe these sparklers will play a large role in the Finger Lakes AVA’s future.
But here’s the twist—climate change is real. The silver lining is that it opens doors to other international grape varietals that may now prosper in the region. For instance, Dr. Konstantin Frank cultivates the native Georgian grapes Rkatsiteli and Saperavi with ease. Likewise, Nancy Irelan of Red Tail Ridge is on a similar journey, introducing bold reds of Teroldego and Lagrein from Northern Italy. All benefit from extended periods of warmth and sunshine, which create the potential for the development of greater phenolics, tannin and complexity.
It’s against this backdrop that we consider Wine Enthusiast’s current crop of top-rated wines from the Finger Lakes AVA. They span a variety of varieties and styles, illustrating the tremendous depth and breadth of the region. If these bottlings are any indication, the Finger Lakes AVA surely has an exciting future before it.
Our Top-Rated Finger Lakes Wines
Hillick & Hobbs 2020 Estate Vineyard Dry Riesling (Seneca Lake)
Paul Hobbs’s Seneca Lake winery has cemented, in just a few short years, a spot at the top of NY Riesling. Only the second release, the 2020 is stunning. It’s lucid and bright, but also concentrated and powerful, with aromas of lemon pith, apricot kernel, orchard blossoms, talcum powder and nutmeg. The bone-dry, rock-strewn mineral palate is slippery, even a little viscous, but it’s quickly drawn into center by a laser beam of crystalline acidity. There’s a pulse of juicy citrus to the long, tingly finish. Drinking beautifully now, it has at least another decade of life left. The best part? It’s a total bargain. 96 Points. Editor’s Choice —Christina Pickard
$38 Wine.com
Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Brut (Finger Lakes)
This is a smartly made traditional method fizz from one of the Finger Lakes’ most respected producers. Lovely layers of aromas, from gilled apple and honeyed pear to florals and white spice open on the rich, toasty nose. Lively bubbles and racy acidity leap from the glass at first sip. There’s tangy fruit, textural interest and excellent length. It is, frankly, delicious. 94 Points. Editor’s Choice —C.P.
$ Varies Wine-Searcher
Hermann J. Wiemer 2020 Reserve Dry Riesling (Seneca Lake)
This blend of estate vineyards is consistently a favorite year over year. The 2020 delivers intense aromas of fennel pollen, lemon oil, yellow apple, tangerine and sliced ginger, making it utterly compelling. Ample apple and stone fruit flavors blend with earthy, spicy elements on the dry palate, with well placed acidity and a pithy texture lending support. Editor’s Choice. 93 Points —Alexander Peartree
$27 Wine.com
Lakewood 2020 Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes)
This takes a few moments to aerate in glass, but soon offers a pleasant combo of plump red and black fruit, spice and herbs. The mid-weight palate has cool climate freshness, a smoky barrel note and a tug of quite fine, savory, textural tannins. Grown up Cab Franc with length and balance to pour with fatty cured meats or grilled veggies. Best Buy. 91 Points —C.P.
$ Varies Wine-Searcher
Heron Hill 2020 Ingle Vineyard Blaufränkisch (Finger Lakes)
Lifted aromas of brambly red berries laced with black pepper and sappy, savory herb and spice notes open. The palate has a light and airy feel, but is tugged back down to earth by taut, sappy tannins. Rustic but clean, balanced and varietally typical, wearing its cool-climate origins with confidence. 91 Points —C.P.
$ Varies Wine-Searcher
Lamoreaux Landing 2021 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes)
With aromas like green apple Jolly Rancher and peach candy—backed by toasted coconut and ground ginger—this is an easy-to-like Chard. The vivid, confected fruit flavors flow through to the palate, where a softly creamy texture is buoyed by a lick of acidity. Balanced, with lovely freshness and length, this is a versatile, food friendly bottling at an affordable price. Best Buy. 91 Points —C.P.
$ Varies Wine-Searcher
Six Eighty Cellars 2021 Rosé Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes)
Like others in this producer’s range, this isn’t a conventional rosé, but in this case, the wildness is gives it character. It’s like raspberries freshly picked and pressed, the smell of the thicket lingering, with cherry cordial, green herbs and a touch of cream. The palate is slippery with textural interest, crunchy acidity and a raw concrete vibe alongside tart red berry fruit. It’s reminiscent of the table wines of the Southern Rhone. 91 Points —C.P.
$ Varies Wine-Searcher
Anthony Road 2020 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes)
Cohesive aromas of apple, peach, lemon and sea spray give this sermidry Riesling a strong start. The palate offers a playful mix of apple and peach flavors honed by zesty elements of lemon and salt. Bright acidity lends lift while a gentle tactile pithiness brings a gentle grip to the close. 90 Points —A.P.
$ Varies Wine-Searcher
Kelby James Russell 2021 Nutt Road Vineyard Dry Rosé (Finger Lakes)
Bright aromas of thyme and shishito pepper are matched by spritzes of pink grapefruit and tangerine in this delightfully intense Cabernet Franc rosé. It shows a smooth, rounded palate built by zesty flavors of crushed stone, peppery herbs and citrus, with riper flavors of strawberry and melon rounding it out. Refreshing acidity and a gentle grip of delicate tannins give this a properly bold profile. 90 Points —A.P.
$ Varies Wine-Searcher
Sheldrake Point 2021 Estate Bottled Gewurztraminer (Finger Lakes)
A delicate perfume of rose water, lychee, orange blossom and honeysuckle makes it easy to take a sip of this classically styled Gewurtz. The palate shows a little sweetness and creamy mouthfeel, but is lifted by mouthwatering acidity. Orange citrus and floral flavors ride a wave to the finish line. Best Buy. 90 Points —C.P.
$ Varies Wine-Searcher
Wagner 2021 Ice Riesling (Finger Lakes)
Made from frozen Riesling grapes, this medium-gold-colored wine is intensely sweet, but harmonious. A rich perfume of lemon, peach and pineapple candy is followed by gentler notes of honeysuckle and butterscotch. Creamy and concentrated in the mouth, the sugar is lifted by lemony acidity. Drink with a citrusy dessert or a salty cheese plate. 90 Points —C.P.
$35 Total Wine & MoreWhy You Should Trust Us
All products featured here are independently selected by our team, which is comprised of experienced writers and wine tasters and overseen by editorial professionals at Wine Enthusiast headquarters. All ratings and reviews are performed blind in a controlled setting and reflect the parameters of our 100-point scale. Wine Enthusiast does not accept payment to conduct any product review, though we may earn a commission on purchases made through links on this site. Prices were accurate at the time of publication.
CORRECTION: A previous version of this story stated that Dr. Konstantin Frank founded the Finger Lakes AVA’s first winery. He founded the region’s first vinifera winery. We regret the error.
Last Updated: October 17, 2023
