Recently, Champagne backtracked on its promise to reduce the use of herbicides, leaving consumers outraged, and thirsty for sparkling winemakers willing to walk their talk toward social and environmental responsibility.
Luckily, a few biodynamic bubble makers already do just that, having eliminated the use of all herbicides, pesticides and other harmful chemicals and focusing on the health and longevity of their land. The result: vibrant, transparent sparklers, expressive of place and vintage.
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Working in Harmony
“We’ve always been dedicated to doing everything we could to work in harmony with the environment in which we’re growing our grapes,” says Jim Bernau, who cofounded Oregon’s biodynamic sparkling winery Domaine Willamette with wife Jan. “Biodynamics is really an extension of that desire.”
Bernau also founded Willamette Valley Vineyard (WVV) in 1983, where he proved an early adopter of Oregon’s sustainable LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology) certification and Salmon-Safe vineyard practices.
Equally important, biodynamic farming allows winemakers an opportunity to work in harmony with their teams. “It is necessary to emphasize that biodynamics is also [about] people—their ability to work as a great team under shared values like honesty, commitment, respect to nature and themselves,” says Ton Mata, CEO, enologist and third-generation owner of Spanish Cava producer Recaredo. Located in the Penedès region, Recaredo achieved the region’s first biodynamic certification in 2010. Founded in 1924, the estate claims fame for its long-aged, brut nature-only sparkling wines.
Climate Change Challenges
But biodynamic farming does present some struggles. “We’re very worried for climate change and the bad situation we’re facing these days,” says third-generation Anna Nardi, director and brand ambassador for Perlage, Prosecco DOCG’s first organic winery. “And that’s the reason for all our choices.”
The Nardi family founded Perlage in 1985, introducing their first biodynamic Prosecco in 2004. Deeply committed to sustainability, Perlage later earned VIVA (Evaluation of the Impact of Viticulture on the Environment) certification in 2022, vegan certification in 2015 and B-Corp status in 2016.
Perlage sources all the grapes for its flagship biodynamic Col di Manza Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Prosecco Millesimato from one 12.35-acre biodynamic vineyard atop the hills of Farra di Soligo.
In Spain, Recaredo combats climate change via both proactive and adaptive methods. These include lowering yields and cultivating local varieties able to withstand higher temperatures and altitudes, such as the native Xarel-lo. Today, Xarel-lo accounts for 60% of Recaredo’s total plantings, derived by massale selection (cuttings from its oldest vines), thereby increasing vineyard biodiversity and resilience.
Ecological vs. Economic Costs
Costs prove another challenge. “It’s a substantial investment at the start, because the land must be prepped using biodynamic methods,” says Terry Culton, director of winemaking and vineyards at Willamette Valley Vineyards and Domaine Willamette. “It’s more labor intensive. You can’t spray herbicides, so we have to use hand labor and animals to control [invasive plants].
Opened in 2022, the winery’s Bernau Estate Vineyard (which applied for Demeter Biodynamic Certification the same year), grows 9 acres of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier planted in 2019, and another 15 acres of Pinot Noir planted in 1994.
Culton estimates that biodynamic farming costs run about 15% higher than his other LIVE-certified vineyards. However, economy of scale helps. “We are already investing in sustainable farming practices at all of our sites, otherwise the additional costs would be even higher.”
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Ultimately, biodynamic bubble makers believe that the social and ecological benefits far outweigh the economic costs. “It is obvious that there is a higher cost,” stresses Mata, “but what is the cost to the planet of growing on a solely productive and volume-based conception?”
“There’s a value and a return on investment that we believe will show in the bottle,” concludes Culton. “We’re already committed to sustainable farming in all of our vineyards. This is our chance to take it a step further. We feel that this extra effort will be rewarded with an amazing bottle of sparkling wine.”
This article originally appeared in the 2023 Best of Year issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!
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Published: December 14, 2023
