Carmel-by-the-Sea was named by a Spanish explorer after the Carmelite friars on his boat in 1602, making it one of the oldest European place names in the United States. Its rise as a fairytale-esque oceanside retreat for artists, writers and those seeking respite from San Francisco began in the early 1900s.
That storybook vacation vibe dominates today, enhanced by cobblestone streets and hidden courtyards. There are 16 tasting rooms scattered amidst the galleries, shops and restaurants. There’s enough to keep you here for the whole weekend, without feeling overwhelmed. There are even more tasting rooms about 20 minutes away in Carmel Valley as well. So if you still have energy and an appetite to enjoy more, click here for our Carmel Valley guide.
Albatross Ridge
Perched atop a mountain ridge overlooking the Carmel Valley with glimpses of the sea, the wind-whipped, fog-soaked Albatross Ridge Vineyard is a daunting place to grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But the elements result in creating some of the most distinctive wines around.
“The soil is diatomaceous and shale, very similar to Burgundy,” says Toby Rowland Jones, an author and founder/president of the Big Sur Food and Wine Festival who also runs the walking tour and tasting company Carmel Wine and Wandering.
More inviting for the human experience is their tasting room in Carmel-by-the-Sea, where the white rock walls reflect their chalky soils. There’s a bar for active engagement with the staff, or more intimate tables for couples to enjoy their pours together. “If Garrett Bowlus, the owner and winemaker, is there, you’re in for a rollicking good time,” says Rowland Jones.
Caraccioli Cellars
Longtime sommelier Bernabe de Luna, who is general manager of Cella Restaurant in Monterey, recommends Caraccioli Cellars for their sparkling wines (which they started out making) as well as their Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and, newest of all, Gamay Noir.
“Like the Franscionis [of Roar Wines] and Pisonis, they’re third-generation farmers and they all grew up in Gonzalez,” says de Luna. You might find fourth generation Swiss-Italian vintner Scott Caraccioli in their modern, cave-like space, where you enjoy tastings that are bubble-focused or run the gamut of their wines, which are all fresh, tense and deeply complex.
De Tierra Vineyards
Repeatedly voted by locals as the best tasting room in town, De Tierra sources grapes from the northern end of the Santa Lucia Highlands, making for acid-driven Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Housed in an older cottage with a patio, it’s one of the most spacious tasting rooms in town, and friendly to both families and dogs. Flights include five wines and, on Sunday afternoons, live music.
“The stainless steel Chardonnay is exquisite—refreshing and bright—while their rosé of Pinot is a gorgeous wine that I’d pair with almost anything because of the full richness yet dry finish,” says Rowland-Jones. “It’s a fun tasting room, outside of the immediate downtown, but everywhere in Carmel is close by. Sit in the window seats and watch the world go by.”
Book a tasting room reservation at De Tierra.
Galante Wines
To get a sense of this history of the town, head to Galante Wines. “They’re one of the original founders of Carmel-by-the-Sea,” says De Luna, referring to Jack Galante, the great-grandson of original Carmel developer Frank Devendorf.
Galante Vineyards was also the first tasting room to open here in 2004, says Rowland Jones, and it’s the only one to keep a steady focus on Bordeaux wines. “Jack’s a gregarious cowboy who’s made brilliant wines since 1994,” he says, suggesting the Rancho Galante, whose Cab base is balanced by Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah, or the Red Rose Hill, another Cab but with Malbec, Merlot and Petite Sirah. The tasting room reflects that cowboy vibe, with lots of soft leather and polished wood casting a warm, Western glow.
Lepe Cellars
Set along a bar-like counter at the entryway of the Winfield Gallery—which collects an eclectic range of contemporary art—Lepe Cellars is the homegrown project of Salinas-raised vintner Miguel Lepe, one of the few Mexican-American winery owners in the region. His wines run from the traditional northern Monterey County offerings of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and now Gamay Noir down to bottlings from the less explored southern, warmer reaches of Monterey County, such as Petit Verdot and Zinfandel as well as Malbec from the San Antonio Valley.
Since the space is tight, tastings here are intimate affairs with direct and steady attention from the educator on the job, which is often Lepe himself. Peruse the art gallery in between pours.
Scheid Vineyards
As one of the families who first planted grapes across Monterey County, De Luna says that the Scheid Vineyards tasting room is a great place for a foundational education of the region. They also make wines from almost every appellation in Monterey County, which is why there are often more than 50 different bottlings for sale, from Albarino and Barbera to Pinot Noir and Petit Manseng to Tannat and Zinfandel. The centrally located tasting room—which is a busy place with books, older vintages and various knick knacks to buy—offers two different flights each day to explore the many options.
Book a tasting room reservation at Scheid Vineyards.
Slivestri Vineyards
This family vineyard—owned by Alan Silvestri, who’s composed scores for films such as Avengers, Back to the Future and Forrest Gump—is located in the Carmel Valley, but shares its wines through its tasting room in Carmel-by-the-Sea. And their bottles are blockbusters, too.
“Silvestri Vineyards wines are full of fruit and finesse,” says Roxanne Langer, the owner of Lady Somm Wine School and Salon who enjoys Silvestri’s Barbera and Rising Tide Pinot Noir. “Enjoy watching a loop of his greatest hits on a large TV monitor in the tasting room while sipping your wine.”
The centrally located tasting room is a taller-than-usual space, featuring a small loft above the bar where a couple tables offer a more private sipping experience.
Where to Eat and Stay in Carmel-by-the-Sea
“Carmel has the highest ratio of restaurants to residents anywhere in the United States,” says Toby Rowland Jones. “There are more than 63 in one square mile, so you have incredible choices.”
On his short list is Foray Restaurant, which is gunning for a Michelin star but offers a fantastic happy hour. “You can score great wines and nibbles at ridiculously good prices,” he says.
Another stand out is the La Playa Hotel and Bud’s Club. “You feel as though you’re stepping into some plush private club from Way Back When,” says Rowland Jones of this watering hole, which serves great bar food though not a full menu. “The bar program is creative and it’s a great place to enjoy people watching, or the sunset over Carmel Bay from the back patio.”
De Luna suggests Cantinetta Luca for Italian food. “They’ve been making their own pasta and curing their own salume for the longest time,” he says.
Also on his short list are Chez Noir, which are both Californian cuisine with European twists, and, of course, the famous Aubergine at L’Auberge. “It’s the only two Michelin star restaurant in the area,” says De Luna.
La Bicyclette was where Taylor Swift went when she visited recently. “It was good before but it’s still hard to get a reservation,” says Langer. “It’s quaint with excellent French/Italian food and a fun, albeit small wine list.”
As for where to lay your head? “Lodging in Carmel is plentiful, with price points from medium to quite exorbitant, and a number of bed and breakfast places thrown in for good measure,” says Rowland Jones.
So, splurge and stay at L’Auberge, or take Rowland Jones’ advice and opt for The Coachman’s Inn. “It has ample parking—critical in Carmel!—and from there you can stroll everywhere to your heart’s delight!” he says.
Langer likes Carmel Mission Inn, which is revamping itself as a more hip place—plus it’s near her LadySomm salon.
If you’re seeking a spot on the ocean, there are surprisingly few. But Sanctuary Beach Resort does the trick. “A little ways out from Carmel, it is the perfect escape as it has a spa, offers private bonfires on the beach and an amazing restaurant, Salt Wood Kitchen,” says Langer.
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In the shop
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Published: December 3, 2024
