For centuries, Italy has captivated travelers, from the ancient Greeks in the 9th and 8th centuries B.C. to European aristocrats on their 18th- and 19th-century Grand Tours. Now, modern tourists chase Instagram-worthy moments along the Amalfi Coast or in front of Florence’s Vivoli Gelateria with their famed affogato.
With tourism booming across Europe, many destinations have been reaching a breaking point. Cities, like Venice and Rome, have introduced hefty tourist taxes, strict short-term rental regulations and advanced ticketing requirements for popular attractions that get scooped up faster than Eras tour tickets.
Fortunately, for those passionate about wine and culture, there are still regions across Italy that have remained untouched by the excesses of mass tourism.
Alto Adige, also known as Südtirol, is one such gem. Nestled in the northernmost region of Italy, Alto Adige offers a blend of breathtaking Alpine landscapes, world-class wines and Michelin-starred dining experiences.
Historically part of the Habsburg Empire (now Austria and Hungary) until World War I, the area is a fascinating cultural crossroads where northern and southern Europe converge. Both German and Italian are official languages, and the region’s cuisine reflects this dual heritage, blending hearty Alpine traditions with Mediterranean flair. Dishes, like delicate speck and creamy polenta paired with Lagrein or Gewürztraminer, can be found at classic mountain huts and rustic eateries all throughout the region.
The City: Bolzano
Bolzano (Bozen in German) is the largest city in Alto Adige, with 17th- and 18th-century Habsburg architecture creating beautiful streets and squares, and sits at the center of the “Y”-shaped region. Vine growing has been an integral part of the city’s history, and as the city has grown, its boundaries have engulfed vineyards that were once considered “countryside.” Today, you can walk down a city street and find yourself in a vineyard. It’s a great hub for visiting the area.
Weingut Nusserhof
Piani di Bolzano Neighborhood
Since 1788, the Mayr family has been farming their land as the city has grown around it. Today, they boast six acres in the city and just shy of four acres of 100-year-old vines just a few kilometers away. Undeterred by the constant development around them, the father-daughter team of Henrich and Gloria produce some of the region’s most distinctive wines from organic, native grapes, including Blatterle (an ancient white grape thought extinct until the Mayrs revived it), Lagrein, Schiava and Teroldego. Visitors may feel like they’ve stepped back in time while tasting through the selection in their 18th-century living room. Appointments are a must for groups of up to 10.
Kellerei Bozen (Cantina Bozen)
Rencio Neighborhood
Alto Adige is a patchwork of family-owned vineyards, with the average size of just two acres. This is why 70% of Alto Adige wine is produced by cooperatives around the region. Kellerei Bozen, located a little over a mile from Bolzano’s city center, is a prime example of these co-ops’ dedication to quality. The 224 families that work together produce a range of wines, from everyday drinkers (including an impressive Pinot Grigio) to cellar-worthy classics, across both native and international grapes.
In 2019, they opened a state-of-the-art winery, designed by local architects Dell’Agnolo-Kelderer, to welcome visitors. Tastings take place in the modern, architecturally stunning wine shop that is flooded with natural light. Tours of the facility can be booked on the website.
Where to Eat and Sleep in Bolzano
If you want to taste the best of Alto Adige’s offerings, Lisa Wineboutique in the historic center of Bolzano, a favorite among locals and winemakers, is the spot. Also in the heart of the city, Löwengrube has been continuously operating since 1543. Though ownership has changed hands over its 480-year history, the charm, food and wine have remained exceptional.
About an hour outside of Bolzano, Alter Fausthof B&B, in Tierserstraße, offers the genuine feel of nonna cooking. Overnight and visiting guests can choose dishes off the menu or be treated like royalty by letting the owner take the reins.
West of the city center, in the Gries neighborhood, Weingut Schmid Oberrautner offers brand-new apartments for rent. The family-owned winery, which is one of the oldest in the region, offers warm and welcoming hospitality. Guests can harvest vegetables from their garden and enjoy wines from the honor-system wine fridge. A classic Tyrolean breakfast, complete with fresh bread and homemade jams, is served daily.
South of Bolzano
The valley widens and apple orchards dominate the wide valley floor to the south of Bolzano. The area is home to the charming villages like Caldaro that sit on the beautiful Lago di Caldaro (Kalterersee) and Termeno (Tramin)—the birthplace of Gewürztraminer. Many wineries here are accessible via the well-marked Alto Adige Wine Road, a scenic bike trail that goes through 16 villages, passes 70 wineries and covers 93 miles—it’s essentially the yellow brick road for wine lovers.
Cantina Kaltern
Caldaro
Located in the picturesque village of Kaltern, just north of Lago di Caldaro (Kalterersee), Cantina Kaltern is one of the region’s most historic cooperatives and its largest, with 650 members farming 1,100 acres (averaging 1.7 acres per member).
Together, the families grow over 15 grape varieties, but the showstoppers are Pinot Bianco and Schiava. The microclimate around the lake is known to produce vibrant, fresh and fruit-forward reds from Schiava and this one particularly shines. The cooperative’s bright tasting room is an excellent place to sample their diverse range of wines and learn about Alto Adige’s rich winemaking traditions.
Elena Walch
Termeno
In the 1980s, Elena Walch, representing the fourth generation of the winemaking family, redefined the estate and elevated Alto Adige’s reputation on the global wine stage. Visitors can explore the wines at two locations: the cozy and relaxed “Le Verre Capricieux” bistro in Termeno and the majestic Ringberg Castle, which overlooks Lago di Caldaro and is surrounded by the historic Ringberg vineyard.
Open from April to October, the castle is home to some of the family’s most highly regarded wines, including their dynamic and delicious Gewürztraminer. Guided tours are available by appointment.
Book a tasting room reservation at Elena Walch.
Weingut Niklas
Caldaro
Nestled in the hills above the village of Caldaro, this small family estate has been a standout grower for three generations. In 1970, the Sölva family were the first to plant the Kerner grape, a cross between Schiava and Riesling, which has since become a calling card for the region.
Their tasting room is as fresh and vibrant as the wines they make. While they are known for their electric Kerner, do not skip tasting their Pinot Bianco that rivals white Burgundy at a fraction of the price. Appointments are required.
Weingut Ignaz Niedrist
Girlan
Along the Alto Adige Wine Road, in the village of Girlan, lies Weingut Niedrist. This historic family-owned farm has thrived for over 100 years.
Today, siblings Maria and Johannes work alongside their father, Ignaz, crafting some of the region’s most respected wines. Their Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Noir are exceptional, with the latter ranking among the best in the world. The family personally tends to the vines and cellar. So, visits, which are hosted in their home, are by appointment only. Tasting wines with the Niedrists feels like being part of their family.
Where to Eat South of Bolzano
Newly renovated, Ristorante Ritterhof in Caldaro, sits atop Lago di Caldaro. It offers stunning views, impeccable service and innovative-yet-classic dishes by Chef Arnold Kemenater, who showcases the region’s bounty. The wine list complements the Alpine-Mediterranean flavors beautifully.
The Adige and Venosta Valleys
The Adige Valley, the namesake of the region, is one of the world’s most awe-inspiring wine landscapes. The 30-minute drive northwest from Bolzano to Merano, is marked with steep, dramatic mountainside vineyards, where vines cling for their life. Once in Merano, the Adige River flows west, forming the Venosta Valley, where wine estates vie for space among world-class ski slopes.
Cantina Terlano
Terlano
Founded in 1893, Cantina Terlano is a model cooperative, with quality as its core philosophy. Representing 143 family growers, Terlano produces wines that age for decades and showcase the region’s cred as worthy cellar additions. Among them? The Rarity 2011 Pinot Blanc and the Terlaner cuvée. The simple, but comfortable tasting room offers visitors the chance to explore their extensive lineup, including older vintages. The village of Terlano is also famous for its asparagus, and springtime visitors can enjoy the unique–and difficult—pairing with Terlano’s wines.
GraWü
CermesFounded in 2017 by husband-and-wife team Leila Grasselli and Dominic Würth, GraWü is a deeply personal project. After working at some of the most famous vineyards across the world, the couple decided to craft the kinds of wines that speak to them. Their minimal-intervention approach results in dynamic, energetic wines that are easy to fall in love with, like the GT.O., a Gewurtzraminer that has been macerated for four weeks. Production is tiny—just 25,000 to 30,000 bottles per year—so appointments to tour the cellar and taste around eight wines are essential.
Marinushof
Castelbello
At the gateway to Stelvio Natural Park in the Venosta Valley, Marinushof is run by Heiner and Sabrina Pohl, a husband-and-wife duo who grow not only old-vine grapes but also apples and other fruits. Visitors can enjoy classic Alpine hospitality while either Heiner or Sabrina personally chat like long lost friends and discuss the wines and fruit brandies during tastings. Appointments are highly recommended.
Where to Eat and Sleep in the Adige and Venosta Valleys
The gorgeous views and excellent food have helped to earn Tirol’s Castel Fine Dining two Michelin stars. Guests are treated to an ever-changing, seasonal menu while overlooking the panoramic vistas of the Venosta Valley.
In Tisens, one-star Michelin restaurant Zum Löwen is set in a restored rustic-meets-modern farmhouse in the mountains overlooking the Adige Valley. Run by Chef Anna Matscher, one of Italy’s most talented culinary stars, the menu seamlessly blends tradition and precision in dishes like Tortelli filled with fonduta of alpine pasture cheese. The wine list features an impressive selection of wines from Alto Adige and other global greats.
Family-run B&B Agriturismo Sittnerhof, in the heart of Merano, features only six rooms, making for a cozy and personalized experience. From its traditional architecture to its warm duvets and the Brunner family’s alpine hospitality, this is Alto Adige warmth at its finest.
The Isarco Valley
The Isarco Valley (Eisacktaler) is a steep, narrow region to the northeast of Bolzano renowned for its high-altitude vineyards and crisp, steely white wines. Here, the landscape is dotted with ancient castles and including the must-visit Franzensfeste Fortress, a historical site turned modern art museum.
Kuenhof
Frazione La Mara, Bressanone
The Pliger family’s wine journey began almost serendipitously in 1988 when a local restaurant owner recognized the potential of their “home” wine. Today, Kuenhof is one of the greatest white wine producers in Italy, certified organic and practicing biodynamic viticulture.
Simon Pliger, the second generation winemaker, continues his parents’ legacy, producing bottles that are electric and soulful. Their newly remodeled tasting room, clad in wood and featuring a large glass window overlooking the valley, is the perfect spot to enjoy their even more impressive wines. Appointments are required.
Abbazia di Novacella
Novacella
Founded in 1142, Abbazzia di Novacella remains an active Augustinian abbey and one of the oldest continuously producing wineries in the world. At 882 years old, the abbey is not just a winery but also a museum, garden and restaurant, which highlights a wide range of architectural styles that span from medieval Gothic arches to a Baroque church. Visitors can spend half a day exploring the entire historic site and winery, which offer 90-minute vineyard tours that end with tastings of its impressive range of wines.
Where to Eat and Stay in the Isarco Valley
Near the top of the Isarco Valley in Prati, Ristorante Pretzhof is a farm, butcher, wine shop, bistro and restaurant all in one. Reservations are essential. But the soul-warming food (think: speck, ravioli and beef tartare) and excellent wine list make the planning worthwhile.
For stunning views that stretch for miles, Kofererhof in Varna-Novacella, serves home-cooked Alto Adige dishes, including pastas and charcuterie plates, on its stunning outdoor deck and inside a cozy wooden dining room.
About an hour away, Hotel Bad Schörgau in Sarntal is a modern retreat worth checking into. It started as a farmers’ spa in the 1500s and now offers therapeutic services along with a relaxing pool and serene, modern rooms.
How to Get to Alto Adige
Travelers can score direct flights to Bolzano (BZO) from European hubs like Munich, Vienna or Frankfurt. Malpensa and Linate airports in Milan are a 3.5-hour train ride or a three- to four-hour car ride to Bolzano. It’s a similar amount of time to take the scenic drive from Munich International Airport through the Alps.
No matter where you fly in, the best way to explore Alto Adige’s wineries and villages is by renting a car or hiring a private driver.
More Italian Travel Coverage
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- Drinking Diary: Imbibing along the Adriatic Coast.
- Meet Villamagna, the tiny (but mighty) star of the Abruzzo wine region.
- An off-the-map culinary adventure through Abruzzo.
- Five glasses in Milan: Aperitivo culture means Negroni Sbagliatos and plenty of Franciacorta.
In the Shop
For Wine On-the-Go
This versatile messenger-style wine bag comes with removable bottle liners, a corkscrew and an aerator.
Published: December 13, 2024
