Flavored whiskey is nothing new, from fruit-infused moonshine to Fireball’s cinnamon spice. But the latest wave hits differently, channeling specific sense-memory treats—and in some cases, generating big bucks.
Looking back a decade or more, flavored whiskeys tended to leverage flavors already found in whiskey (vanilla, caramel, cinnamon) or that complemented whiskey (honey, apple, cherry). While that hasn’t gone away, explains Adam Rogers, research director for IWSR Drinks Market Analysis, “coming out of the pandemic, newer releases have taken more of an indulgent treat-oneself approach with nuanced flavors such as cookie dough, chocolate, pumpkin spice, peanut butter or combinations of these.”
Which brings us to the juggernaut that is Skrewball. Created in 2018 by Steve and Brittany Yeng, the peanut butter-flavored whiskey found fans almost immediately, spurring a slew of imitators. In March 2023, Pernod Ricard acquired a majority share of the brand for an undisclosed sum.
Add to that newcomers like ’Shmallow, a toasted marshmallow-flavored bourbon from Hotel Tango Distillery in Indianapolis; Dough Ball, a cookie-dough flavored whiskey from MPL Brands (introduced in 2021); and Midnight Snack, a Tennessee whiskey from Elvis Whiskey flavored to taste like the rock icon’s favorite peanut butter, bacon and banana sandwich.
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’Shmallow began as a “funky, burnt-sugar infusion” made for the distillery’s bar, recalls Hotel Tango’s Holleh Matlock, who was a bartender when the drink was developed and is now a content manager for the brand. During the 2020 lockdowns, the distillery created a bottled edition of the whiskey, sold as a togo offering, and in 2021 developed it into a core product, officially launching in July 2022.
“It quickly became one of our best sellers,” Matlock says. In the first year following the launch, almost $615,000 worth of ‘Shmallow bottles sold, making it the second most popular spirit behind the distillery’s flagship bourbon.
More recently, Elvis Whiskey debuted its Midnight Snack bottling in April 2023. While the inspiration for the flavor was obvious—the King’s iconic sandwich—the success of Skrewball helped make a case for bringing the concept to market, says Matti Anttila, founder and CEO of parent company Grain & Barrel Spirits. He also cites the popularity of Howler Head, a banana-flavored bourbon cofounded by United Fighting Championship president Dana White. Following a 2020 debut, in August 2022, Campari paid $15 million to acquire a 15% stake in the brand.
If that seems like a lot of new names, you’re not imagining it. Flavored whiskey has been on a tear since 2018, particularly in the U.S. According to IWSR, from 2017 to 2022, growth of flavored whiskey (+11%) has outpaced that of unflavored whiskey (+3%). In fact, flavored whiskey now commands over a fifth of the whiskey segment in the U.S.
One reason brands are paying keen attention to the category: They’re attracting elusive younger consumers.
“Flavored whiskey in general is going to skew a bit younger,” notes Anttila. The Midnight Snack bottling, for example, draws consumers from 21 to their mid-30s, he says, compared to the 40-plus demographic for the brand’s Tennessee whiskey and rye offerings. Sales are primarily at bars and restaurants and often consumed as a shot.
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Matlock also credits the “approachable” flavor and silly, fun-to-say name factor into the appeal to a younger demographic more than the distillery’s core whiskey drinkers.
Yet, what the numbers don’t reflect: Despite the fun flavors, many producers are taking the underlying whiskey base seriously. This is a big change from past years, when a flavored whiskey often signaled that the spirit in the bottle was nothing special.
“The flavors are getting more diverse,” Anttila observes. “I wouldn’t be surprised to see more chefs get involved in the flavor game, lending more culinary perspective on how flavors are developed.
Mix it Up
Not just great straight. Elevate your next cocktail with a flavored whiskey using one of the recipes below.
Light Me Up, Chesty!
Courtesy Hotel tango Distillery
Ingredients
- 2 ounces ’Shmallow Toasted Marshmallow Bourbon
- ¾ ounces pineapple juice
- ¾ ounce lime juice
- ¼ ounce simple syrup (1:1 sugar:water)
- 1 barspoon chili powder
- Grated cinnamon and pineapple leaves, for garnish
Instructions
Combine all ingredients in a shaker tin with ice. Shake well, then strain into a double rocks glass over fresh ice. Top with grated cinnamon and garnish with pineapple leaves.
‘Shmallow Old Fashioned
Courtesy Hotel Tango Distillery
Ingredients
- 1 ounce ’Shmallow Toasted Marshmallow Bourbon
- 1 ounce bourbon
- 2 dashes chocolate bitters
- 2 dashes black walnut bitters
- 1 swath orange peel
- Walnut, for garnish
Instructions
In a mixing glass, stir whiskeys and bitters with ice. Strain into a rocks glass over a large ice cube. Twist orange peel over the top of the drink to express the essential oils, then discard the peel. Garnish with walnut.
This article originally appeared in the October 2023 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!
Last Updated: September 5, 2023
