Ubiquitous and often uninspiring, Pinot Grigio is the best-known Italian white wine. And while there are some good, and even great, bottlings, Italy has so much more to offer.
Producers create excellent wines from non-native Italian grapes like Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Kerner, mainly from select areas in northern Italy. However, some of the most exciting white wines from up and down the peninsula come from Italy’s native grapes.
To explore the expanse of Italian white wines made with indigenous grapes, we start in the north of the country.
Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle
Region: Valle d’Aosta
Located beneath the snowy peak of Mont Blanc, the Morgex et de la Salle growing zone in Valle d’Aosta turns out crisp, savory white wines from among the highest vineyards in Europe. Here, in terraced vineyards and on low pergolas, native grape Prié Blanc makes racy, mineral-driven whites with delicate scents reminiscent of Alpine herb and hay.
Production is tiny. While Valle d’Aosta Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle is exported to the U.S., it may be hard to find—but it’s well worth the effort to hunt down. The producers below are imported to the U.S. via Vinity Wine Company, Cream Wine Company and Jan D’Amore Wines, respectively.
Suggested producers: Cave Mont Blanc de Morgex et la Salle, Ermes Pavese, Maison Vevey Albert
Friulano
Region: Friuli–Venezia Giulia
The Friulano grape excels in the hills of Collio and Friuli Colli Orientali in the Friuli–Venezia Giulia region. It was known as Tocai Friulano until 2007, when the European Union forced Italy to relinquish the Tocai name to avoid confusion with Tokaj from Hungary.
Wines made with Friulano boast full-bodied finesse and feature aromas and flavors of pear and almond. While it’s fresh, it has milder acidity than many other white grapes. Some producers ferment and age in wood to add complexity.
Suggested producers: Borgo del Tiglio, Raccaro, Russiz Superiore
Ribolla Gialla
Region: Friuli–Venezia Giulia
Ribolla Gialla yields dry, racy wines. When made with traditional white wine vinification methods, the grape offers delicate floral aromas, peach and citrus flavors alongside crisp acidity.
Thanks to thick skins, when it’s produced with prolonged skin contact and aged in large oak casks, Ribolla Gialla yields more complexity, with a great depth of flavors including dried apricot, honeyed nut and mineral.
Suggested producers: Gravner, Radikon, Zuani
Soave Classico and Soave
Region: Veneto
Soave, which hails from Veneto, is often associated with light-bodied, zesty bottlings destined to drink immediately. But the best Soaves, namely Soave Classico and those made exclusively in the hillsides, boast flavor, depth and surprising longevity.
To underscore these two distinct styles, the denomination has introduced 33 official vineyard areas. Starting with the 2019 vintage, they’re officially known as Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGA), 28 of which are in the Classico zone in the hills between the wine’s namesake medieval town and Monforte d’Alpone. Made mainly with Garganega and up to 30% Trebbiano di Soave grapes, the best expressions are elegant and intense.
Suggested producers: Gini, Pieropan, Inama
Custoza
Region: Veneto
This dry, vibrant white from Veneto is produced in classic and Superiore versions. It’s crafted with a flexible blend of varieties, including Garganega, Trebbianello (a local biotype of Friulano), Bianca Fernanda (a local clone of the Cortese grape) as well as Trebbiano Toscano. Producers can also use up to 30% Malvasia, Riesling Italico, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Manzoni.
The straight version is delicate, crisp, floral and fruity with added sensations suggesting wild herb. The small amount of Superiore bottlings are creamier, with more intensity and good mid-term aging potential.
Suggested Producers: Albino Piona, Cavalchina, Monte del Frà
Lugana
Regions: Veneto and Lombardy
Made with Turbiana, a native grape grown on the southern shores of Lake Garda, Lugana’s growing zone spans the Veneto and Lombardy regions. It comes in five distinct styles. The straight Lugana accounts for about 90% of total production, while other still whites are designated as Superiore or Riserva. It’s also produced as a Vendemmia Tardiva (late harvest) and sparkling wine.
Crisp and enticingly floral, Lugana has juicy citrus, white stone fruit and almond sensations. Rounder, fuller-bodied Lugana Superiore is aged for one year and shows wild herb and saline notes. Released after two years, Lugana Riserva is elegant and complex, with flinty mineral and spice.
Suggested producers: Marangona, Ottella, Tenuta Roveglia
Gavi, Erbaluce, Arneis, Nascetta and Timorasso
Region: Piedmont
Better known for its structured reds made with Nebbiolo and Barbera, Piedmont also produces impressive whites from native grapes.
Made with the Cortese grape, Gavi is dry, crisp and floral. Meanwhile, Erbaluce is focused and linear, with hawthorn aromas and a light almond close. Closely associated with the hills of Roero, Arneis yields creamy, generous wines that have a nutty finish.
Nascetta, whose spiritual home is Novello, was revived in the 1990s after it nearly became extinct. The best expressions have floral, tropical fruit and wild herb sensations as well as great aging potential. Finally, Derthona, made with Timorasso in the Colli Tortonesi area, is a complex white wine with honeyed mineral notes and serious longevity.
Suggested producers: Pio Cesare (Gavi), Castello di Azeglio (Erbaluce di Caluso), Angelo Negro & Figli (Roero Arneis), Elvio Cogno (Nascetta del Comune di Novello), Roagna (Derthona Timorasso)
Published: April 19, 2021
