Meet Aravelle, an Emerging Finger Lakes Darling 40 Years in the Making

It might take decades for a grape variety to find its place and name. Take the case of one emerging from the Finger Lakes region: Aravelle (ar-uh-vell)—a hybrid grape variety that took more than 40 years to come to fruition.

A crossing of Cayuga White and Riesling grapes, Aravelle (formerly known as NY 81) is the brainchild of well-respected and revered grape breeder Dr. Bruce Reisch. A Cornell graduate, Reisch took a wine appreciation course during his undergraduate years but knew nothing about grapes or how they grew. He did, however, study plant genetics and upon receiving his doctorate was open to working with any crop.

Riesch landed a job at his alma mater and, during the course of his 40-plus year tenure, was able to produce 14 new grape varieties in the Cornell AgriTech program. Aravelle was the final grape variety released right before he retired in 2023.

But why did it take so long?

“When a grower plants a new variety, it’s not unusual for it to take decades to breed,” Reisch says. “You can get hundreds of seedlings from one cross, so there needs to be years of data.”

When Dr. Reisch planted NY 81 in 1981, he was simply thrilled to launch something new. “Grape breeding is exciting because you’re a unique person in the right time and place to see grapes that have never been seen before—a grape pioneer!” he explains excitedly. “Each vine is brand new, and because you can get hundreds of seedlings from one cross, it’s exciting to find the winner among tons of losers.”

As with any big endeavor, it’s common to grow impatient and even frustrated, “but there were producers who were still interested,” Reisch says. “It’s really resistant to botrytis like a Riesling, but it didn’t rot.” With this new insight, Dr. Reisch got back to work with renaming the grape variety with help of colleagues and other industry professionals. In March 2023, he announced the release of Aravelle at an industry conference.

Paul Brock, head winemaker and co-owner at Silver Thread Vineyard in Lodi, New York, was one of those grape growers who has held interest in Aravelle for some time. In 2012, his work as a professor at Finger Lakes Community College gave him access to Aravelle, and he was consistently pleased with the wines produced by his students each year.

“Aravelle proved to be very resistant to diseases like downy and powdery mildew in the field, which comes from its parent Cayuga White,” Brock says. “Its berry cluster also has loose architecture, which means it is less prone to botrytis in the late (harvest) season.” This also means it doesn’t require an intense spray program of fungicides or pesticides.

At Silver Thread, Brock makes a pét nat with about 20% Aravelle—a popular offering in his tasting room—as well as in still wine blends. “Aravelle doesn’t have a foxy taste or smell, just a lot of fruit and floral character,” Brock says.

Dr. Reisch agrees. “I think it is an approachable variety for the connoisseur and the novice wine consumer,” he says. “With floral and fruit notes of apricot, peach, apple and citrus, Aravelle has a richness that almost resembles Muscat, but truly is its own variety.”

Quick Facts:

• Grape: Cold-hardy, disease-resistant white grape
• Cross of: Cayuga White and Riesling 
• Wine styles: Still blends and pét nats; semi-dry to dry 
• Aromas/flavors: Apricot, peach, honey, apple, floral, citrus and tropical fruit
• Food pairing: Spicy foods, soft cheeses, poultry and pork

This article originally appeared in the Best of Year 2024 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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Published: December 3, 2024