You’re invited to a unique opportunity to travel through Italy without ever leaving NewYork City! Join us on Tuesday, September 10th, 2024 at City Winery for the premiere of Wine Enthusiast's Sip of Italy -- an exclusive wine tasting event. You'll have the chance to taste wines from nearly 50 of the best wineries in Italy, all serving Wine Enthusiast 90+ point wines. GET YOUR TICKETS TODAY! For far too long we’ve been discussing Barolo in all the wrong ways. Dividing an entire wine region based upon the notion of “modern versus traditional,” a division introduced to simplify things for consumers, even if most of them were unfamiliar with what either term meant, has lost its significance and credibility over the past two decades. Maybe 30 years ago these easy categorizations seemed a convenient label for wines from an obscure region, elusive to most where it was on the map, let alone what grape was in the bottle. Today, Barolo has ascended to global renown, and its wineries are venerated, with the region drawing tourists from every corner of the world in search of culinary and viticultural bounty. The producers of this dynamic region have transcended the limitations of blackand-white definitions, and it’s time we followed suit. Once, the introduction of change to a region so rooted in the past was extremely challenging. As Chiara Boschis of E. Pira & Figli explains it, “It was a generational conflict. The story of Barolo had never changed, and we needed to change. It was a huge shock to the region. There was tension.” The shift occurred when more farmers became grower-producers and a new style of Barolo emerged. Suddenly Barolo, to the outside world, was a wine defined by winemaking practices, rather than terroir or grape. “There were two schools of thought: modern versus traditional. There were many discussions and arguments among producers, journalists, sommeliers and consumers, but it opened the world market to Barolo,” recalls Elena Brovia, who owns the historic winery Brovia with her husband, winemaker Alex Sanchez. As these wines garnered more attention, there were unintended consequences. Some Barolo became unrecognizable, with producers crafting deeply colored, dense expressions that did not capture any of the qualities once prized in the wine. These “modern” Barolo gained international acclaim and fetched higher prices while more interest in the region developed. Matteo Ascheri, owner of Ascheri and the president of the Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani, saw that “for some it was pedal to the metal, creating wines that lacked in elegance and finesse. But without this pressure, we may not have had the evolution that we experienced. After years of evolution and challenging each other, we are now all seeking to highlight our home, our wine and our culture.” New Age Over the past two decades, producers’ hard work, exchange of ideas, technology and success have led the world of Barolo to no longer be defined by details like the type of barrel used or the length of maceration. Today, sommeliers, importers and consumers are excited to explore vineyards and discuss the nuances and diversity of the wines from different villages. Fabio Alessandria of Comm. G.B. Burlotto describes that change: “The market is more mature, wine lovers know Barolo now, they have tasted more wines and developed their own ideas. Today we do not just talk about how we make wine, but we talk about finding the identity of our terroir in the glass. Every producer must be able to interpret the wine as they want, but the differences are not so big anymore.” This search for identity and willingness for some change has even allowed new wineries to emerge. Trediberri, established in 2007, has made waves across the world with its approachable style, commitment to purity of Nebbiolo and its focus on terroir. Helmed by Nicola Oberto, it is a shining example of how respect for the region and the ability to embrace technology and new ideas have allowed him to craft what he describes as “a wine that is weightless and powerful.” He believes “people want to smell Nebbiolo, Dolcetto or whatever grape you are presenting to them, and they want to smell the place. We are following in the Italian culinary tradition, a few amazing ingredients to create something clear and identifiable, just use the best products, do as little as possible and make something that speaks of your place.” The best Barolos of today are eminently drinkable upon release but have the balance and staying power to evolve gracefully in the cellar. Tom Myers of Cantina d’Arcy worked across New Zealand, Tuscany and Burgundy before making his way to Barolo. His first vintage of Barolo, 2020, was released this year and he is already an up-and-coming star. As an outsider, he wants to honor those who came before and respect those who helped shape the region. “My way to honor tradition is to learn from it,” says Myers. “Know the how, the why and the reasons things were done. Were they done for qualitative reasons or due to resources? The tradition of the Langhe is a library and there are many books, and to be respectful you need to read them all.” This understanding of who and what came before has given Myers the foundation to work in the field and produce wines of soul and pleasure, all the while having the historical know-how in the vineyards to better understand what to do today and how to plan for the future. Alan Manley, winemaker and owner of Margherita Otto, an American transplant and longtime restaurateur with deep knowledge about the region and its history, sees Barolo “as being on various planes or gradations. The modern versus traditionalist distinction is a useless frame of reference for today. It does not matter; what matters is whether are you are making good or bad wine. Too much has changed from 100 years ago; we cannot pretend that nothing has changed. There have been technological changes, cultural changes, climate change. Modern, tradition….who the fuck cares? The rest is politics and preference.” This sentiment is shared by producers across the region. Those who were once called modernists and those called traditionalists all agree now that the vineyard is paramount, and the focus must be centered on the “respect for nature, for the people working in our vineyards and for ourselves,” says Matteo Ascheri. The modern versus traditionalist distinction is a useless frame of reference for today.Alan Manley, winemaker and owner of Margherita Otto Photography by Tom Arena Rethinking the Future Understanding that the quality of a wine is directly linked to the quality of work done in the vineyard is not a new phenomenon, but the pressures of climate change have forced growers in the region to rethink and redouble their efforts to ensure that the essence of their terroir will exist in the future. The region has been faced with extreme heat, drought and rainstorms that dump months of water in just hours. These extreme changes have forced growers to examine their practices, but perhaps more importantly they have compelled the newest generation to make changes to ensure they can continue their family legacies. Beatrice Boschis, niece of Chiara Boschis, dedicated her studies to viticulture, and since joining the winery three years ago, has confirmed her belief that the future of Barolo is predicated on the creation of greater biodiversity across the region. “We spent so much time decreasing the biodiversity of the region leaving us only with vines; today we must reintroduce local plants and animals to create a healthier ecosystem both above and below the soil. Healthier soil makes better wine and is more resilient than soil that is barren and dead. This makes the difference between a good and extraordinary wine.” Every grower in the region must adapt to climate change. “We are trying to create an oasis in our vineyards that keep temperatures down, decrease erosion and welcome bees and other animals that add to the vineyards, which allows us to continue to make elegant and fresh wines that speak to our terroir and our style,” says Brovia of her focus. Thus, the future of Barolo lies not in the constraints of old labels but in the boundless potential of a region committed to honoring its past while embracing the opportunities of the present and future. “We are lucky that we live in a special area for food and wine,” comments Alessio Cighetti, owner of the wine bar Centro Storico in Serralunga d’Alba. “Like Rome, Venice and the Grand Canyon, we must protect who and what we are.” Wines to Try This article originally appeared in the August/September 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today! More Barolo Coverage "In Barolo, 11 Distinct Villages Create the King of Wines," says writer Kerin O'Keefe. It’s time to hop on the Barolo train, with these highly rated bottles. The making of a 100-point Barolo: read about this wine with structure, energy and balance. Explore the much-talked-about 2019 Barolo vintage of Italy’s Langhe region in this piece by Wine Enthusiast reviewer Jeff Porter. The best time to drink that Barolo? Right now, says O'Keefe. For an overall guide, take a look at our Barolo wine region page. In the Shop Organize and Display Your Wine in Style Put an exceptional wine selection on display with decorative wine racks of every style, size, and placement for your home. Shop All Wine Racks